Configuring the Steadicam Merlin with the Canon 5D Mark II

In this article I assume you own a Steadicam Merlin and need to configure it with your Canon 5D Mark II for shooting amazing video.  If you want to purchase one go to http://www.steadicam.com or your local photography store.

Plan on spending a full 8 hour day configuring and noting the various configurations for your specific gear.  You will want to make a cheat sheet for the field until you master the configurations for your gear.

You will need to become proficient in balancing and adjusting the Merlin in the field for your various shoots as well as gear changes.  The supplied DVD that comes with the Merline does a good job showing you different trims for various shots (e.g., up stairs, down stairs, following or leading someone, etc.)

Rig Setup: 5D Mark II Body, using Canon LP-E6 battery, EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Lens, B+W 72mm UV10 screw on filter

Note: No lens cap on the camera.  You want the initial balance to be as lean as possible.  Also since I am using a zoom lens it extends or retracts for different focal lengths and this movement will force a new balance point and this is why I notate the focal length.

If these terms are unfamiliar to you please refer to the owners manual for a complete reference and illustration.

Steadicam Merlin Configuration: at 24mm
Arc Size: Full Open  (open the upper and lower spars wide open via caliper adjustment knob)

Front Weights: 1 Mid + 1 Finish

Bottom Weights: 3 Mid + 1 Finish

Dovetail Plate: Hole O (You may want to place some gaffer tape on each side of mounting hole so the mounting plate has something to grab on to and stay in position)

Z Adjustment (Guide Ring on Gimbal): -4 Turns (4 counter-clockwise turns from all the way in)

Dovetail Plate Configuration:
Holding Merlin in front of you like you would in shooting position so the latch is on the right side looking from the rear.

Note: A really good way to balance out the Merlin is to place the grip on the edge of a table and make sure the lower spar doesn’t make contact with the table leg.

Stage Position (number scale on left side of dovetail plate): -4 plus 1 tick.

Fore-and-Aft (Up and Down) Adjustment: the white line on the blue adjustment roller on the left side lines up at the scale position of 1 plus 1 tick.

Side-to-Side (horizontal) Adjustment:  (blue roller at the back side): 4 Threads showing on the left side.

Steadicam Merlin Configuration: at 70mm
The only differences for this focal length are the stage position and trim for vertical and horizontal.

Stage Position: -3 plus 2 ticks

Vertical: trim as needed

Horizontal: trim as needed

If you want to add a Cokin filter for neutral density or a polarizer then the adjustments above will get you close, but because the weight of the Cokin kit and each filter is different you will have to make some adjustments.  Also I noticed the lowest focal length that I could use was approximately 32mm because at 24mm the lens would vignette with the attached filters.

Cokin Polarizer
Focal Length: ~32mm

Stage Position: -4 plus 3 ticks

Fore-and-Aft (up/down): trim as needed

Side-to-Side (horizontal): trim as needed

Cokin Neutral Density Filter

Focal Length: ~32mm

Stage Position: -4 plus 1 tick

Fore-and-Aft (up/down): trim as needed

Side-to-Side (horizontal): trim as needed

Tim

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2010. You may not republish or use this information in part or in whole without written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.timlaytonphotography.com or via email at tim@timlaytonphotography.com or via the telephone at 314-643-8118.

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About Tim Layton

Timothy Layton is a classic black and white photographer that works with natural light and traditional chemical-based analog photography processes.
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